Most men know they need a good suit, but with so many options out there, the terms custom, made-to-measure, and bespoke get thrown around. While all these options have their place bespoke is truly the next level in tailoring.
Bespoke is about breathing life into fabrics and creating masterpieces. So, what sets it apart from the $500 suits you can order online?
Sets
Investing in your first tailored suit is a big deal. It’s a milestone that signals your transition into a sophisticated man of style, allowing you to upgrade your look for a wide range of events and occasions. You’ll also likely be surrounded by tailoring jargon, with terms like ‘bespoke’ and ‘made to measure’ getting thrown around a lot.
Bespoke and made-to-measure fall under the umbrella term of customization, but they’re very different. Bespoke suits are created from scratch, while made-to-measure starts with a standard pattern that is altered to fit the client. This allows for greater personalization than off-the-rack suits, but it falls short of the level of attention to detail synonymous with bespoke tailoring.
The bespoke process begins with a consultation, where the client and their tailor discuss their vision for the suit. They’ll then choose fabrics from a variety of global sources and schedule a series of fittings. At each fitting, the tailor will make adjustments to ensure that the garment meets all of the client’s requirements. This ensures that the final product is the perfect embodiment of their vision.
This is why bespoke suits can take 12 to 18 weeks to complete and require multiple fittings. It is the ultimate in personalization, and the result should be a suit that fits like a second skin.
A bespoke suit is also superior in quality to a made-to-measure or off-the-rack suit. For instance, a bespoke suit will be crafted from the finest materials, such as wool or silk. These fabrics are not only luxurious to look at but also incredibly durable and comfortable to wear.
In addition, a bespoke suit will be sewn by a master tailor. This ensures that every seam is neat and smooth, resulting in an impeccable fit. It will also feature a full floating canvas made from natural horse hair and provides a softer feel than the fused cotton of a made-to-measure or off-the-rack jacket. This means that the suit will retain its shape no matter how much you move or stretch.
Tailoring
Bespoke clothing is designed to fit you from the first stitch. It’s an art form, not factory efficiency. It takes several months to complete a suit, including consultations and fittings. The process is much more intimate and requires more time than off-the-rack or custom suits.
While tailored suits are adjusted to your specific measurements, bespoke suits begin with a completely new pattern. The pattern is made for you and includes the smallest details, such as the arch of your back or how your shoulders slope. This allows a garment to hide certain body flaws, such as if you’re bow-legged or have one shoulder lower than the other.
Unlike MTM, bespoke tailoring is conducted by the actual cutter and seamstress who will be making your suit. The sizing sessions will also be more personal and focused on your needs as opposed to simply fitting the fabric. This allows the tailor to build a relationship with you and get to know your style. The tailor can also explain how your style works with the materials and fabrics they have available to you.
Bespoke tailors have a much wider range of fabrics to choose from than their MTM counterparts. They can work with nearly any type of fabric, including cashmere, silk, and wool. In addition, they can create a wide variety of linings and other finishing touches. Bespoke tailors want to build relationships with their clients, so they often provide a library of fabrics from which you can choose the color and pattern that best suits your personality.
When choosing a bespoke suit, you’ll meet with the tailor one-on-one to discuss your style and fabric options. They’ll explain the different qualities of each fabric and how it will wear with your specific body type. They’ll also recommend the style of lapels and other details that will make your suit stand out.
When choosing a bespoke suit, it’s important to understand that this is a long-term investment. A bespoke suit can last a lifetime, but it requires some care to ensure it looks its best. The best way to protect your bespoke suit is by following the tailor’s care instructions. If you follow the instructions carefully, your bespoke suit will continue to look as good as the day you got it.
Fabrics
The first step in the process of creating a bespoke suit is choosing the fabric. A great bespoke tailor will have a wide selection of fabrics, and their expertise will help you choose a style that will match your personal taste and lifestyle. You’ll be able to find a full range of colors and patterns as well as different textures and materials.
The next step is to take your measurements. A skilled bespoke tailor will go beyond the basics and measure your neck circumference, chest width, shoulder length, bicep circumference, arm length, wrist height, waist, and hips. A bespoke suit requires several fittings, and the final product should be perfect, which is why it takes longer to make a bespoke suit than an MTM one.
Once you’ve decided on the cut, color, and fabric, you can schedule a fitting with your tailor. This is when the magic happens. A great master tailor will breathe life into your suit, creating a unique masterpiece. The details set the best bespoke suits apart from the seaming to the lapels.
MTM and bespoke suits start from the same pattern, but a bespoke garment is made entirely for you. A quality bespoke suit will be stitched together with temporary white basting thread and loosely sewn during the basted fitting to ensure that the final product fits your body perfectly. This is a crucial step that doesn’t exist in online MTM, and it helps to avoid costly alterations after the suit is made.
A bespoke suit will feature a full floating canvas, often with horse hair, that gives the jacket, pants, or shirt a softer and more comfortable feel than the fused man-made canvas of an MTM suit. Bespoke suits also take a much longer time to complete – anywhere from 12 to 18 weeks.
Generally, bespoke suits are a good option if you’re a man with a significant fashion sense and willing to invest in his wardrobe. A bespoke suit is perfect for special occasions like weddings, awards ceremonies, and other milestones.
Design
Bespoke suits can be made in a multitude of styles and colors. The fabric is arguably the most important element, but there are also many other things to take into consideration, such as textures, buttons, and lapels. Moreover, the tailor can add a custom monogram or stitch pattern.
These details are what set premium bespoke apart from made-to-measure or off-the-rack garments. In addition to offering superlative fit, a custom suit will often be softer and more comfortable than a mass-produced off-the-rack piece. It will also feel like a second skin, which is essential for comfort when wearing it all day.
A suit can be a powerful wardrobe addition because it can make you stand out from your peers. Whether you’re trying to differentiate yourself in a business meeting or an interview, a customized suit can help convey your personality and message. It can even increase your confidence. While off-the-rack clothing offers some immediate benefits, a tailored suit can offer a superior fit and a personalized design that sets you apart from everyone else.
Generally speaking, bespoke tailors will use 25-30 of your body measurements to create a unique pattern for each customer. These patterns are then basted (loosely sewn) together for a fitting. This allows the tailor to see how the suit fits and then make adjustments if needed. Depending on the tailor, this can involve anywhere from 3-5 fittings before the suit is ready for production.
The process of making a bespoke suit takes much more time than made-to-measure or off-the-rack garments because they are constructed from scratch, whereas MTM and off-the-rack garments use existing patterns that are adjusted to the customer’s measurements. Furthermore, MTM and off-the-rack garments usually have a glued or partially sewn interlining, while bespoke suits are fully canvassed.
As a result, bespoke suits are more expensive than MTM and off-the-rack garments. However, if money is not an issue and you’re looking for a high-quality suit that will last a lifetime, bespoke tailoring is worth the investment.